It's incredible what cocoa beans have experienced before they end up in our cups. In this interview, we talk to confectioner Lara Jaeger about her journey to the origin of the bean, indigenous cocoa ceremonies and mindful snacking.
You followed the trail of cocoa on your journey. How did that come about?
As a pastry chef, I have always wanted to work 'on site' with the raw materials that I use professionally: Cocoa, vanilla, cashews, coconuts etc. My first stop was therefore the cocoa bar at the Pachamama eco-village in Costa Rica. There I learned how to make really healthy chocolate. After a while, I was even allowed to create my own chocolate.
What makes cocoa so special for you?
I was able to take part in a cocoa ceremony in Guatemala. I was amazed at the positive effects of ceremonially produced cocoa on body, mind and soul. It's hard to imagine if you only know 'European' cocoa.
Cocoa is a medicine that is over 3000 years old. The effect on my body was very strong. It made me want to connect even more with the plant and take these cocoa ceremonies back to Europe.
My profession, confectionery, was the trigger for this trip to Central America. I was also fascinated by the fact that cocoa has a spiritual side.
What was the aim of your journey to the origin of the cocoa bean?
I wanted to take everything I could with me. The production process, fermentation, etc. That's why I worked on a social cocoa project in the Lanquín region. The Tuqtuqilal farm is currently run by three women, which is something special in Guatemala. Some of the cocoa is grown there. Above all, however, the cocoa is purchased from other farmers at a fair price and processed further.
The process is incredibly laborious. After harvesting, the beans are fermented in wooden boxes for 7 days. They have to be stirred every day so that oxygen is added. The result is a strong vinegar smell.
And then comes the most strenuous part of the work: the cocoa is dried in the sun for 7 days. To do this, it has to be emptied out of sacks in the morning and packed back into sacks in the evening so that it can dry in the sun during the day and doesn't get wet from the rain in the evening. In between, it is moved around for hours with a rake so that it does not overheat. Carrying these heavy sacks back and forth is incredibly hard work.
The workers made it clear that this type of production is a project close to their hearts. They want a really good product to be created. And they were all very grateful for their jobs.
I am very grateful for these experiences. It has changed and strengthened my connection to cocoa. Many things have surprised and amazed me.
How did you come into contact with cocoa ceremonies?
Maja ceremonies are still held throughout Guatemala, for example for the deceased. However, cocoa is used less and less for this. Guatemalans also tend to drink coffee in everyday life.
However, it was important to me to investigate the ceremonial use of cocoa. And by chance I came into contact with Izaias, a master of cocoa ceremonies. He offered to train me, so to speak. He taught me how to read the Maja calendar, how to make a ceremonial fire and how to lead cocoa ceremonies. I am so grateful to him for that. This experience has really turned my life upside down.
Which cocoa powder do you use in your cocoa ceremonies?
No, I use "ceremonial cocoa". This cocoa is produced with particular care and with a specific intention. Almost everything is done by hand. Only the grinding of the beans is done by machine. In the production of ceremonial cocoa, people must not be paid unfairly or exploited in any other way. The cocoa I source from Guatemala is also packaged without plastic and transported by ship(lavalove cacao).
Ceremonial cocoa is processed as a block and not as a powder. All the cocoa butter is therefore still contained. This is important for the effect, because ingredients such as zinc, magnesium and protein are retained.
The fact that good cocoa has also been proven to make people happy is partly due to the tryptophan it contains, which is converted into serotonin in the body. The theobromine in cocoa also has a subtly stimulating, very delicate psychoactive effect - comparable to a kiss. Which makes you feel particularly present.
Participants in cocoa ceremonies often tell me that the 'uplifting' effect of drinking cocoa lasts the whole day. I like to use this effect to write or make music.
How does a cocoa ceremony work?
The ceremony lasts one to one and a half hours. The participants bring a cup. I prepare the cocoa for everyone and pour it into the cups. Then the ceremony begins. You close your eyes and connect with the cocoa, which is then drunk slowly.
I choose a specific theme for each ceremony. Traditionally, this theme is read from the Maja calendar. I have great respect for this tradition, but I try to be authentic to myself. As I am not a Maja, I also pick up on themes that are present or collectively present in my life.
During the ceremony we drink cocoa, meditate, but I also sing and play the ukulele. Experiences are shared afterwards. So far, I have received a lot of positive feedback. I now offer a ceremony once a month.
Do you enjoy cocoa differently since then?
Drinking cocoa is something special for me every time. That's why I try not to do it too often. I drink cocoa when I'm preparing for a ceremony. It opens the door for preparing for the ceremony and the entrance themes. I have also made chocolates from ceremonial cacao that I call "bliss balls". For very conscious, private use.
What would be your appeal to all those with a sweet tooth in the world?
My relationship with consumer chocolate has changed. Personally, I don't buy cheap chocolate and value fair trade labels. It would be nice if more people did that. And also think about what's behind it. This doesn't just apply to chocolate.
Unfortunately, we are too far removed from food to understand the value chains. I became very aware of this through the 'Journey to Cocoa'.
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